Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Time to Get Touristy!

My boyfriend flew into town this afternoon with only a backpack.

Because his bags hadn't followed him quite as quickly. 

So, they'll be delivered to where I'm living in Porto Alegre sometime after we arrive in Foz de Iguaçu, where he's going to a symposium on circuits and systems and we're going to enjoy some amazing waterfalls.

This meant that for his first afternoon in this lovely city full of beautiful green trees, we had to do his least favorite thing: clothes shopping.

Seriously, I'm not sure he's actually gone clothes shopping since 1979. (And no, it's not because I've been buying clothes for him).

I haven't paid too much attention to men's clothing here, so I dragged him into a C&A downtown with blaring pop music (oh yeah, Spice Girls was on the playlist) just because it was cheap and I figured there'd be some basic options.

Poor man.

I tried to help him get it over with as soon as possible, and considering his zombie-I've-just-been-traveling-for-21-hours-how-am-I-supposed-to-figure-out-my-clothing-size-in-a-foreign-country state and my you-like-it-let's-buy-it-let's-go-let's-go-let's-go state, we did pretty well.

LUCKILY, he's already got some gaucho culture under his belt. Before we ventured into the shopping insanity, we stopped by the travel agent to rent a car for the first few days of March. And there, he was able to try his first chimarrão. Everyone looked at him anxiously and asked, "Did you like it?" I'm not sure if his "Yes, it's good, I like anything with caffeine" was as enthusiastic a response as they desired. But, he did drink it all. 


We fly out of here at a god-awful early hour tomorrow. And, surprising as it may appear, I'm not bringing my laptop. And yes, I do anticipate some separation anxiety. I figure I'm going to really test out this enjoy-being-with-my-boyfriend-and-detox-from-the-incessant-need-to-obsessively-check-the-internet-far-more-frequently-than-called-for thing.

So, see y'all a few days from now!

Monday, February 22, 2010

Park Day

Monday (segunda-feira) is the designated "sports" day for the youth group that I get to hang out with.

And so, we went to the park. Armed with those popsicles - the kind that come as heavily-sugared juice in plastic the size of a bookmark that you have to freeze - we all stood at the bus stop waiting for the right city bus. You have to tear them open with your teeth. The first time I tried, bright orange juice went everywhere. But that's just how I roll.

Imagine a line of teenagers all with bright blue or bright red or bright orange popsicles in their mouths waiting patiently and laughing quietly with each other.

We sat in the asphalt at the park, did a little breathing, did a little stretching and then the teenagers got to play as they pleased. A game of soccer began with some of the boys. Those who were wearing just flip-flops took them off and played barefoot. I saw broken glass on the edge of the court. I hoped to God no one was going to step in it.

The girls taught me a game with a volleyball.

It was hot, even in the shade.

One girl walked with me up a hill to the edge of the park to show me the water. We looked across the street towards the shimmering Guaíba. Some insist it's a river, but really, it's a lake. This girl told me earlier that she is 16 and the last time she went to the beach she was 4. And now she was telling me all the places she wants to see in her country and around the world.

Part of me was thinking how it wasn't fair that I so (relatively) easily could travel here. And once here, could so easily travel to places she's never been. And part of me was hopeful just to listening to her. I love to hear people dream out loud, because if you can put words to them, then I think you're one step closer to them, even if you're still a million steps away.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Meaning Behind Hot-Pink Flowers


Hot-Pink Flowers
Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
On Saturday morning I walked through the organic farmer's market. I saw these funky hot pink flowers for sale in one of the stalls. But I didn't buy them because it would be some hours before I got home and I feared they would wilt.

Later, walking back via that same path, I saw a little girl holding one bouquet of these flowers in each hand. Probably a street child or living in very poor circumstances. And she was cute. She was the kind of girl with long flowing locks that would get chosen to be in some international end-poverty TV commercial. Just send money and you can help her live a better life because now she can buy books for school. Or something like that. I wonder if she goes to school...

"Flowers?" she asked me.

I paused.

After all, I had wanted to buy them earlier.

"Two reais" she said (about $1.10 American). "This bunch of flowers, there's something wrong with them," she added pointing to the bouquet in her left hand. Indeed, the stalks looked a bit bruised.

"Hmm," I said, "I think I'll take the other bunch." I felt a tad guilty about not taking the flowers that looked like they would die in a few hours.

It's just that doing the math, even she managed to sell both of these, she'd make only a few dollars. I wondered where this money would go. Did she have parents or family members? Would she keep it for herself? What would she spend it on? To me, it was some spare change that I could afford to give away. But, to her...

Walking down the path, I saw more children emerge holding bouquets of flowers. Somehow I hadn't noticed them before, but now -- perhaps because of my interaction with the girl moments before -- they now were visible to me. All the flowers were distinctly similar to the options for sale earlier during the organic farmers market.

Visions of orphans from Oliver Twist flooded my brain. And I wondered how they got these flowers. Did they pick up the left-overs on the ground from the market? Did the folks just give them left-over flowers at the end? Did they get a five-finger discount? In any case, another creative way to try and make a few cents.

The flowers look pretty in a vase in the kitchen now. And I wonder where that little girl is and if she managed to sell the second bouquet.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Words on a Page


Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
Back in Texas, people are generally literate.

Here illiteracy is more common.

Yesterday a parent came into a meeting with her son. I watched as the young man laboriously signed his name on a sheet of paper proving his attendance. When it came time for his mother to sign, I watched as she slowly copied each curve in each letter of her name, constantly using what was written on another piece of paper for reference.

Her son looked out the window, tapping his fingers against the wall.

His mother continued to write out her name, carefully forming each letter. Spending innumerable seconds trying to make what she was creating conform with what was on the other paper.

"That's perfect," said the coordinator when she finished, several minutes later, "Thank you."

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

And Then I Sweetly Misspoke...


Sunday
Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
I got to participate in another youth group this afternoon. It involved more painting and in my standard style I managed to get white paint on my jeans, my bracelet and of course way up inside my fingernails.

It was fun!

Before everyone left, E., the coordinator, asked me to teach an English word to the teenagers that I thought might have some resonance. So I chose "sweet" explaining how though it literally refers to yummy-tasting food it also can be used to describe good things. Saying "That's sweet!" can be like saying, "That's cool!"

Everyone thought it was a sweet word and repeated it out loud (sometimes adding a bit of a vowel sound at the end because that's what Portuguese speakers like to do to all words that end in consonants). Sweetchi!

As we continued to talk about it I said that it was kind of like saying "bacana" (great).

Except that everyone paused and looked at me strangely when I said "bacana."

The art coordinator, T. said, "Uh, no that's not the same I don't think."

I realized that I had put the emphasis on the wrong syllable.

Instead of saying bana, I had said baca.

"No, no, I meant to say bana," I quickly added. 

Everyone started laughing, initially I think in surprise, then it got louder but remained pretty good-natured in tone. Still, no mistaking it, they were definitely laughing at me and not with me.

I realized that what I said had sounded just a little too close to comfort to the word, bacanal.

But, truth is, I didn't know what bacanal meant. I just knew that everyone was laughing so that clearly I'd stumbled accidentally upon something inappropriate.

I said, "Hmmm, I'm guessing that I should be embarrassed by what I just said, shouldn't I?" Some kids nodded. No one explained to me what I had said. I couldn't help but blush as I started laughing too.

Still, while I turned a darker shade of red I mused that there's nothing like embarrassing yourself in front of a group of teenagers. I hoped and rationalized that they would see that I could handle it and keep on going on.

Whatever it was I said, it must have been funny.

E. gracefully made some comment about all the craziness of carnival from the weekend messing with our brains and, laughter subsided, we moved on to another topic. They certainly didn't force me to stay with my embarrassment too long. One kid even asked me how the war was going in our country...I certainly had to pause before responding to that one, but came up with a decent answer I think based on the kids' body language while I was talking.

"See," said E. "With Alison we can talk about silly things and we can talk about serious things."

When leaving one girl wanted me to write the word "sweet" down for her so she could remember. All in all, I left feeling good about the afternoon and looking forward to seeing everyone again.

When I got home I looked up "bacanal" online (it wasn't in my Harper Collins which I find rather prudish of them) to see what I'd compared the word sweet to.

So, as it turns out, it means....orgy. Yes, orgy.

I told 15-year-olds that saying "sweet" is very similar to saying "orgy." Meu deus!

I turned bright red and had a return laughing attack as I sat here alone in my room in front of the computer, thinking perhaps it was better that I only find out now what I had so sweetly misspoken before.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

The Boy That Pixou


Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
Once I asked colleague at my internship if all this stuff with juvenile justice was at all polemical in Brazil. If there were folks who weren't so into the fact that a crime committed by an adolescent under age 18 was not actually a "crime" but an "infractional act."

And she said yes.

She then proceeded to relate an incident to me that occurred in Porto Alegre last year that happened to be incredibly controversial. Listening initially to the story I kept wondering where the controversial part would come in.

Seems that a kid put graffiti on a wall at the school he attended. Pixou (as in the title) is the past tense of pixar: "to graffiti" more literally "to spray."

He was caught. By the vice-principal of the school who also happened to be his teacher.

As punishment, she made him re-paint the wall. Someone filmed this with their cell phone and posted it. A scandal erupted. Some were on the side of the educator. Some on the side of the law, which she went against when she administered a punishment instead of turning it over to the courts.

So, I'm thinking, "Huh? This a big deal?....Why?"

I kept imagining this happening in the United States. To me it would make sense (and be preferable) that a school deal with an incident like this on their own without calling the police. Jeez, there are just sooo many incidents that could be dealt with by the school without involving a kid in the juvenile justice system who doesn't necessarily need to be there.

When I expressed that reaction, I was told by my colleague that problem was:

The teacher went against the Statute of Children and Adolescents by bypassing the law and dealing with this kid's infractional act on her own terms. Had he gone through the system he would have likely been given six months of community service to perform. In any case, the point is, that this is the law and you've got to follow it.

Still, I wasn't entirely convinced.

Later, my supervisor said that the bigger problem was that the teacher was actually further aggravating the situation by publicly humiliating the 14-year-old boy. She was making him clean the wall in front of other students and was calling him a "fool" and things like that. The other kids were laughing. Apparently the boy was embarrassed and didn't want to go to school after that.

And, in the statute, Chapter II, Article 18, children and adolescents indeed have the right not to be humiliated:
É dever de todos velar pela dignidade da criança e do adolescente, pondo-os a salvo de qualquer tratamento desumano, violento, aterrorizante, vexatório ou constrangedor.

It is the duty of everyone for the dignity of the child and of the adolescent, putting them in the safety from any inhuman, violent, terrifying, shaming/upsetting, restricting/embarrassing treatment.
After a little searching I found an article (actually the teacher responding to the scandal) that has the video posted (you have to scroll down aways to get to the video).

To me, it's an awkward situation. The kid does seem quietly embarrassed, pulling his baseball cap down over his eyes. The teacher does seem upset by the mistreatment of the school represented in the kid's actions. And justifiably so - she felt that this kid wasn't respecting limits and wasn't suffering any repercussions for his actions. I wonder if perhaps this was the straw-that-broke-the-camel's-back for her? That maybe this one act on the kid's part was one too many for her?

Still, he would have had some consequences in the court system. And really it does seem that this kid, under law, should not have been subjected to embarrassment. Though, as a side note, I still find it curious this whole thing about 'embarrassment' - I would like to find out what incident(s) caused this to be part of the Statute.

I don't think these responses really leave a person that satisfied as regards this incident. Not me, anyhow. But that's because the debate is much bigger than a response to a kid doing something wrong. It's about how why kids are committing these acts in the first place and what's failing them before that? Unfortunately those questions -- and possible answers -- are huge, multifaceted and complex. Sometimes it feels easier, and less defeating, to stay in the details of one tiny incident, even if it doesn't really solve anything.

Anyone have any opinions or initial gut reactions to this that they'd like to share?

Monday, February 15, 2010

A Case of the Second-Market Days


Segunda-Feira
Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
It was raining when I went to bed last night and rain woke me this morning, tapping against the window panes. The electricity went on and off until the early afternoon.

The day was gray and wet. I watched people outside as they dashed across puddle-filled intersections, hiding underneath umbrellas. It was a good day to study, which is what I mostly did.

It felt like a Monday. Or I guess, segunda-feira, as they say in Portuguese.

Which leads me to a question of the language of days. In Spanish learning the days of the week was a snap. But, in Portuguese - even years later - it's a different story.

The days of the week are as follows:
Monday = Segunda-Feira [Translating literally to second-fair/market - essentially second market day]
Tuesday = Terça-Feira [Third market day]
Wednesday = Quarta-Feira [Fourth market day]
Thursday = Quinta-Feira [Fifth market day]
Friday = Sexta-Feira [Sixth market day]
Saturday = Sábado
Sunday = Domingo
The weekends I get. No big deal. (Besides, they're the same in Spanish, so I'm really covered there).

However...when some is saying to me, for example, "Let's meet on Fourth-Market day," I truly have to take a few seconds to count through the days in my head to arrive at what day that might actually be, "The second day is Monday, the third day is Tuesday then so ah, right, Quarta-Feira would have to be Wednesday. Got it!" Sometimes I have the desire to start counting the days on my fingers.

I always feel a little worried in the back of my mind that I'm going to mix up the days and show up on the wrong day for something because these days of the week just don't stick in my head.

The problem - according to The-Man-Who-Came-From-Italia (who counts Spanish as his favorite language) is that these numbered days could be perfectly acceptable, but why, why, why did they have to begin on the second day?!

I would assume that Sunday is/was a day for God and so, clearly not a day for going to the market. Hence it doesn't have feira in its name. Even if you want to believe that Sunday starts the week, it doesn't count in the numbering of market days.

And, it's not just foreigners (Italians, Salvadoreños and Americans at least) who take umbrage at Monday being a Second-Market day. I was pleased to discover in the poetry of Mario Quintana, that he too, in all his Brazilian-ness, might also be sometimes taken aback by Mondays. As he wrote in his poem titled, "To Awaken the Imagination" (Para Despertar a Fantasia):

"O pior da segunda-feira é que a gente sempre chega atrasado: "Meu Deus! como é que eu fui a perder a primeira feira?!"

"The worst of all about second market day (Monday) is that we always arrive late: "My God! How is that I went and missed the first market day?!"

I now feel properly vindicated in my slowness to understand the movement of the days of the week.

Wishing a wonderful whatever-you-want-to-call-this-day to you all!

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Carnaval, Restinga-Style

I took a taxi to Pão dos Pobres at 1:15 in the morning. Considering it's a non-profit that works with children and adolescents (and that some actually board there), the taxi driver had a hard time believing anything could be happening at that late hour and insisted on driving me inside the compound. (Sidenote: I'm appreciative that taxi drivers here are always quite nice about me being a single female - when they'd drop me off at the hostel, for example, they'd always wait until I'd been buzzed inside before leaving.). I was relieved (and a little proud that I knew what was up) to see people milling about outside.

Inside there was dancing and drinking (beer, energy drinks, Pepsi, water) and lots of sweating. I even broke down and had a Pepsi (getting a bit wild and crazy, huh?) even though I don't normally drink soda. Most of these folks were going to be marching in a carnaval parade. I'd had the pleasure of getting to practice the routine with them a couple days ago.


At about 3:30 or so we started crowding on the bus that would take us to the parade grounds. We got on early enough to get seats, which was a good thing since it was a 30 minute ride. At each bump and twist or turn a sea of people would make exclamations such as a wave of "Ohs!" Energy was high. People chanting, shouting, singing and banging with their fists on the ceiling of the bus all the way there. Outside, the city was dark and empty and quiet. Inside the atmosphere was raucous and bursting from the seams with enthusiastic people.

And the chorus -- of course with a samba beat -- goes:
Eu sou tricolor, sou da zona sul
Meu povo é de fé e comanda o show
Seguindo o balanço da minha bateria
Por um caminho que me leva até a China

I am tricolor, I am from the southern zone
My people are of faith and command the show
Following the swinging/balance/beat(?) of my drums
On a path that brings me to China
Now, repeat this about 10,000 times at the top of your lungs, swinging your arms in the air, at least for the duration of reading this post (you can always go back to the top of the post and begin again if you haven't made it to 10,000 by the time you finish) and you will start to get the feel of the experience.

 

Restinga, by the way, is technically a neighborhood in Porto Alegre. However, it just happens to be a neighborhood with over 50,000 inhabitants. When we were arrived preparations for the parade were occurring all over the place. I think the whole neighborhood may have shown up for the festivities.


Eventually some of us separated from the marchers and set off on a quest over gravel walkways (I can't imagine what it felt like for the women in heels to walk through this!) towards our seats. Only problem was that I didn't have a ticket allowing me into the box seats. My friend E., who was marching, had been concerned about this and making phone calls. She'd gotten a text message "ok" from someone, but we still had to get me in. Time to commence operation Get-Alison-From-Texas-Into-the-Show. Luckily I had two women prepared to help me.

Amazingly they got me through round 1 of ticket presentation/bag searches by confusing the ticket collectors and saying I'd already showed my ticket. I proceeded, surprised but trying to hide it, to get my bag searched.

However, round 2 was going to be more difficult since my name had to be checked off a list. Hmmm...They kept saying, "But she's from Texas" and dropping a name of someone. A man near the list-checker-offers said, "Ok, well you have to talk to the German down by the gate." The German looked more Asian than German and said to me (in English), "You speak English."

"Yes," I said, "And Portuguese."

"Right now," he said, taking my hand, "You just speak English, ok? It has to look like you can ONLY communicate with me."

"Ok!" I said allowing myself to be led back to the list-checker-folks where a funny circular conversation with several them, including the fact that I was from Texas, occurred, ending with one of them, eventually, dispiritedly placing a yellow "Invited" band around my wrist and mumbling something about not having the authority.

Woo hoo! I made it thanks to some awesome people helping me through all that! Later telling this to E. and her boyfriend they told me it was the "Brazilian way." Yup, check out that yellow band. 'Cuz people are great here about making sure I get included. And 'cuz I'm from Texas. ;-) (and Massachusetts. That was initially mentioned as well when introducing me to folks but dropped later on because pronouncing that state's name in Portuguese is about as challenging/impossible as me actually getting the nasal intonation in "pão" correct).


Once inside we had to stand on plastic chairs to see over the heads of people in front of us.

China-themed floats and costumes and blaring music, oh my!

Whirling colors and dancing and fireworks too!

Remember to keep singing that chorus:
Eu sou tricolor, sou da zona sul
Meu povo é de fé e comanda o show
Seguindo o balanço da minha bateria
Por um caminho que me leva até a China

 
Eu sou tricolor, sou da zona sul
Meu povo é de fé e comanda o show
Seguindo o balanço da minha bateria
Por um caminho que me leva até a China.

I believe it necessary to give some props to the men responsible for actually pushing these floats. Who cares if they're on wheels. Those things are huge!



And the cute kids dressed up like pandas. Awwww.


And lots and lots of scantily-clad women...


And yay for the pretty-much naked men too (except for an artfully placed version of a fig leaf).


And here was our group! I almost didn't recognize them.


But the pants gave it away. I had no idea about the light-blue and yellow parts of their costumes. It seems that neither did they until it was time to put them on.

Eu sou tricolor, sou da zona sul
Meu povo é de fé e comanda o show
Seguindo o balanço da minha bateria
Por um caminho que me leva até a China.


And a woman clad in feathers in between a fire-breathing dragon and a media crew. Shaking it, shaking it, shaking it with a huge smile on her face. 



And an acrobatic dragon.



Of course, the royal court.


 Even the people in orange sweeping up behind seemed to be marching.


The parade over, we began the task of leaving the grounds and looking for our bus.


And nope, we're not done singing yet (though if you need, you don't have to use quite as much energy or sing quite as loud at this point). 
Eu sou tricolor, sou da zona sul
Meu povo é de fé e comanda o show
Seguindo o balanço da minha bateria
Por um caminho que me leva até a China.

The sunrise was beautiful.


Saturday, February 13, 2010

Going International


Airport Waiting
Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
I am just one of a handful of Social Work master's students from the University of Texas doing my final field internship abroad, so I thought I should give a shout-out to those who are also writing blogs about their adventures across the world:


In South Africa:
how do you say blog in tswana?
and
Ilene's South African Adventures
-------------------------------------------

In Tanzania:
Musings from Tanzania
-------------------------------------------

In Armenia:
Bigfoot's Carbon Footprint
------------------------------------------- 

In Mexico:
Ana V. Portillo's Blog
-------------------------------------------

In China:
Though not a social work student (that I know of), he's definitely studying abroad:
¡Keller's Cogitations!
-------------------------------------------

These blogs are awesome, fun and definitely worth checking out :-)

Friday, February 12, 2010

Living the Vida Vegetariana in PoA...

...is actually not hard at all.

However, I did learn his week when trying to get into the habit of bringing lunch to my internship that the pita bread here (called Arabic bread) just isn't strong enough for slices of tomatoes. Yes, my colleagues looked at me kind of funny when I pulled these falling-apart sandwiches out of my bag and asked me, "What IS that?" Oh well. As an American I get to do (and eat) strange things I guess. Unfortunately I don't think anyone would have considered those limp sandwiches to be exotic...

Oh, and where to find the tofu? In a thick disc-shape next to the ricotta in the cheese aisle where it's billed as "soy cheese." But it's there. And sometimes supermarkets have a couple of shelves devoted to healthy food. There are some little health food stores that always make me happy because they're tiny, reminding me of the hippie health food stores of my childhood pre-Whole Foods, and all their offerings are delicately packaged almost as though they were science projects.

There are some fabulous vegetarian restaurants in my general vicinity too. The musician parents of a wonderful woman (who I met on Facebook through a friend of mine who went to college with her - gotta love 6 degrees of separation!) took me out to a tasty Chinese vegetarian buffet downtown when I first got here. They had tiny little eggs that I'd never seen before and initially mistook for buffalo mozzarella. Oops! Not quite. Later I saw them bottled, next to the olives in a supermarket, so I assume they're somewhat common down here though I'm not sure what bird they belong to.

I also just checked out a cute vegetarian cafe called Bonobo and had a tasty chocolate-banana smoothie there. It was like a real cafe with the option of sitting on a couch and lovely wooden tables. I first noticed them when passing by. I was first attracted by the vibrant red of the building and then by a cute little planter with a message about making the world a better place on it. Hard not to go for that kind of thing.

This picture featured on this post is from one just a block away from the park called Prato Verde (Green Plate). As with many eateries in the city, food is served buffet style. Here you pay when you enter and then you are free to eat as much of the delicious offerings as you can. And as is obvious from that picture, I didn't hold back! Included in the price is fresh juice. This time I had mango. Then lime. Delicious!

I was planning on going there for lunch tomorrow after walking through the organic farmer's market in the park, but was saddened to discover on their website that -- like many, many other stores -- they are shutting their doors until next Wednesday. Sniffle, sniffle. But people warned me that this is what happens during carnaval. I better rush to the supermarket soon to stock up on necessities such as water, water and more water, delicious fruit and of course tofu from the cheese aisle.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Samba Rehearsal


Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
The other night I went to a rehearsal for a group that's going to be marching as part of carnaval in Porto Alegre. I won't get to join them in the parade, but I can watch and I think I'm going to go along for the ride (or shall we say, the walk). I guess -- for reasons I do not yet understand -- they're marching at 5 AM on Sunday morning and therefore, all meeting up at midnight beforehand to be merry together in preparation. So, although I'm usually a fan of sleep, I think this may be one occasion where if I can tag along I will, camera in hand.

The rehearsal was fun. People had gathered hours earlier to eat churrasco (yup, Rio-Grande-do-Sul-style the food offerings were bread and grilled meat), drink beer (and water and soda) and dance a little. I joined my colleague on the dance floor. Another friend of hers laughed an said, "An American dancing samba!"

"One that does not know what she is doing either!" I responded. I stared at everyone's feet trying to get an idea how to move mine.

At 9:30, after some welcomes speeches, rehearsal began with a guy playing a little guitar-like instrument that sounded like a ukulele to me and another man leading us through the words of our song. Apparently a bunch of folks from China are crossing the ocean to come join the fun too, so the song is in tribute to them, including some idealistic lines (at least in my opinion) about how China is "valuing and preserving ecology."

I was grateful for a xeroxed copies of the words to the song, since I hadn't exactly memorized them, to hold in my hand as we waved our hands in the air back and forth during the chorus, held our arms out in a "T" fingertips nearly touching our neighbors at different points. Together we belted out the words to the song over and over again until our body movements generally corresponded to what we were supposed to be doing at that point in the song. Then, sweaty and happy, we applauded ourselves and called it a night.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Convivência (Familiarity) with Teenagers in POA


Mural
Originally uploaded by Blue Dragonfly Girl
I have been meaning for quite some time to write more about my internship.

So, here I go...finally.

Since I've left the main office and have been brought into the field, it has felt like a bit of a whirlwind. Often I come home and my head is spinning, so full of images, new words, feelings, thoughts and experiences to be processed.

And so if I had to choose one word to describe my experience thus far, it would be FULL.

My supervisors truly have the intent of providing me with a rich experience. They want me to leave here with an ample understanding of the reality of adolescents in conflict with the law in Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil. Wow. It's a huge undertaking and their view is systems-oriented. They know that I can't begin to grasp the reality of these youth if I only see them inside an office space. So they want me to see everything I can: juvenile justice in the courthouse, the process of these youth through their offices, the process of community service, the families of these youth, the places where they live.

Writing those sentences fills me with overwhelming gratitude because I have already seen so much and because people have been so open to letting me in.

The region of the city where I am interning has two offices. One office is close to a vila known for its drug-trafficking. The word is used in Rio Grande do Sul to mean the same thing as favela. English approximations of this word include slum and ghetto.

The other office is a greater distance from the city center and is in an area that 20 years ago was largely undeveloped. Slowly the urban poor were displaced from more central locations and came to reside further away. Even now though, it looks almost rural and it's hard to believe you're still in an urban setting.

So, what have I been doing lately?

I have been observing (sometimes participating too) my supervisors as they meet with youth who committed or carried out an 'offending act' (I'm trying to translate somewhat literally here to convey the feeling of the language) who have been ordered to Liberdade Assistida (LA). Literally this means Assisted Freedom. Basically, it's a Brazilian version of juvenile probation and it lasts six months. Sometimes these youth are also assigned to Prestação a Serviço a Comunidade (Repayment of Service to the Community aka Community Service) which is also generally performed 4 hours a week for 24 weeks.

The youth on juvenile probation have to meet with their coordinator once a week. During this meeting, which often a parent attends as well, there's a check-in about how the youth is doing. If they're under 18 then they need to be enrolled in school and there's help with that. Also, they may get enrolled in youth programs. Sometimes there are certain courses available in the city for them to take for free, such as a year-long computer course too. Additionally they may need to do something regarding drug addiction or therapy. And of course, community service might be on the list. In order to get to all these commitments, they are given bus passes. They are also given bus passes to come to and from their meetings with their coordinator.

How are the kids and their parents? Immediately my mind tries to find similarities between them and the youth in conflict with the law that I have worked with in the United States. Of course there's always the kid who doesn't say much or express much emotion, the kid who is always smiling with a mischevious look on his face or appears bashful or slightly embarrassed, the kid who puts up a good show, saying everything he thinks we want to hear, the kid who looks like he couldn't give a damn, the mother who does everything for her son including speak for him, the parents who really need an outlet for themselves, and on and on. 

But, that's just the surface. I'm still learning what that might mean. There are so many other levels and the reality of their daily lives is so different. The monthly minimum wage here is R$500. That's about $270 American dollars a month. It's really NOT that cheap here. I'm not sure how you'd even survive on that, but these families do it. And many survive on less than that. 

My emotional responses vary when meeting with these adolescents. Sometime I have a surge of affection, sometimes I just feel curious, sometimes I feel sad in a way that's difficult to verbalize. I guess it's just the enormity of the trajectory that they often appear to be on, and those age-old questions about how we break free from the harmful cycles and patterns existing in all our lives. All in all, I just am looking forward to the opportunity to get to know these kids more, perhaps even to be helpful to them in some way.

So, what else have I been up to?

A little bit of challenging paperwork that made me want to tear out my hair. Ah well, it didn't last long. No hair lost either. 

I have also gone to several meetings with different agencies that provide community service opportunities for these kids. These include a university (that I'm connected with through this internship), a parks and recreation service, a religiously-affiliated organization in a vila (I'm not actually sure yet what they do) and a book archive. The regional coordinators meet with these agencies on a bi-weekly basis to discuss how everything is going with the youth doing community service.

And then there are regional meetings where a lot is discussed as well including how to adapt to some recent changes in social work in Brazil (I'm still learning about what this really entails). There are more meetings to come.

Today I also went on my first home visit with two social workers and an intern. We are driven to these visits in a van with a driver. This weirds me out slightly even though it shouldn't. It seems that the vilas can be precarious places and so drivers are the way to do it. We visited a husband and wife and their kids in their new home. Their new home consisted of what appeared to be several abandoned structures, with an outhouse (with real toilet, not sure about plumbing) in the yard in between. There was a bit of crumbling disrepair, trash in the yard, yadda yadda yadda. Contrasting this, a line of colorful freshly-washed clothes flapped brightly in the breeze. Then there were the children with sweet smiles and teeth that had never seen a dentist. The husband was happy to give us a tour of their new dwellings. Apparently where they had lived before was incredibly small. This was good living now.

The husband was excessively thin and had tuberculosis. I think he had been hospitalized to try and treat his illness but had left in order to continue drinking. We stood in his bedroom/living room, two of his young children on the couch/bed and he talked about what was going to happen if/when he died. Damn. I wondered what the kids were feeling or if they were used to this kind of talk.

Later the intern told me that what I had observed here was nothing in comparison to what I would see. Still, perhaps it's better that I progress towards the 'harder' stuff day by day. As it was I felt an intensity in my chest that I hadn't really expected. When I told my supervisor about the visit she said that it was good that I see this reality, that I start to see where these kids are coming from. I wholeheartedly agree.

In the vila (or really the outskirts) I was in today, I noticed lots of dogs running. A stark contrast to the neighborhood where I'm living where everyone is constantly out walking their dogs on leashes and carrying plastic bags to scoop up their poop if necessary. I noticed more bars on windows and high metal gates in front of houses (though this isn't only synonymous with poor neighborhoods). But, again I don't think I've really gone in yet. Today when leaving the office with my supervisor, she had to drive through some back roads to get to the main road due to how she'd parked. There were clusters of men on various street corners. "They're trafficking," she said. It was a little before 5 PM. The office closes at 5 for that reason.

However, in case anyone is reading this who is worried about my safety, really it's all okay. I'm not going to be hanging out alone in any areas that aren't safe. The bus stop that I take is on a busy thoroughfare and the office is just around the corner.

However, to leave things on a more positive, strengths-based note, I'll explain the origin of this post's picture. This was how I spent 2 1/2 hours of my afternoon, painting a mural in the backyard of the office with a bunch of neat teenagers who I can't wait to get to know more. There's a youth group offered at this office for teenagers who are involved in the various family services. It's more prevention oriented but I think some kids in conflict with the law may also get involved. One of their projects has been the beautification of this wall out back and I think it's looking awesome. They had done the bulk of the work some weeks ago, but now a lot of details remained to be filled in. I got to help paint things white for example. Everyone was absorbed in their tasks. It felt meditative.

At one point I was conversing a little with a young man painting next to me. He wanted to know what I was doing in Porto Alegre. Was I on vacation? I was talking about how I was here to learn and that I bet they had a lot to teach me, how I was here with them so that I could come to a...I paused, trying to think of a good word to describe my intent. "Convivência?" he offered. It's a word that's used a lot here that I hadn't really known, meaning something like familiarity and intimacy. "Exactly," I said. This describes so much of the feeling I'd like to eventually have here. A tall order for sure, but one that everyone seems to be trying to help me achieve. Already I know that it will be hard to leave.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Thank You, I'm Female

Portuguese is one of those languages that likes to express whether a person is male or female through its words. Basically if words you are using to describe yourself end in "a" you're expressing yourself as a female, if they end in "o" then you're indicating your maleness.

I don't know if any folks have come up with any other alternative ways to express one's gender identity and there isn't a truly neutral option that I know of for people who would rather not place themselves so firmly in one camp or the other.

To say "thank you" in Portuguese, you say "obrigado" if you identify as male and "obrigada" if you identify as female. In other similar languages (Spanish for example) "thank you" is a gender neutral sentiment, but in Portuguese the word literally translates to "obliged" which is therefore an adjective and requires a gender identity choice.

We can assume, for example, that the mall trash receptacles in the picture below happen to be male (and potentially twins?) because of their use of "o" at the end of obrigado:

 
And, as a woman, therefore, I always say "obrigada" whenever I happen to be thankful for something, which is much of the time here.

So.

All that said and all my assumptions made, it came as a surprise here in Porto Alegre to hear many women actually saying "obrigado" with the "o" ending.

Since I'm good at questioning myself, I started wondering if I'd been doing it wrong all along.

And maybe I was wrong about those trash receptacles too! Perhaps they were female and I made a wrong assumption because they had nonchalantly used the "o" ending?!

Finally, I decided I better ask someone.  A young man about my age told me that really it didn't matter, that women saying "obrigado" was just following along the typical lines of a macho culture.  He told me, "The only women who say "obrigada" are feminists."

"Oh," I said, "Well, I'm a feminist, so I guess I better keep saying 'obrigada.'"

Hmmm, so if those trash receptacles were female, then they definitely weren't feminist females.  And what if a person who identifies as male also wants to express that he's a feminist. What then?

Afterwards I found myself musing on this (at least the feminist part) and was curious to confirm this theory with others. However, everyone else said something along the lines of, "Ah, people just feel lazy and don't always pay attention to proper grammar. You're doing it right. Keeping saying 'obrigada.'"

Hmmm, so perhaps those trash receptacles were just lazy females disregarding Portuguese grammar?! Or perhaps I should just ask them. Or perhaps it really isn't that important...this effort to reduce people (or things) into gendered categories seems to be a little more nuanced than I initially thought in Portuguese 101.

So I could be displaying my feminist tendencies or my rigid adherence to proper grammar or simply conveying to the world around me that I happen to be female, all when I utter the simple word "obrigada." Who knew that saying "thank you" could potentially imply so many things besides gratitude?

Monday, February 8, 2010

Cup of Tea at Sunset

A few weeks ago, I enjoyed a cup of chocolate-mint tea in the rooftop cafe of the Casa de Cultura (House of Culture) Mario Quintana. The beautiful pink building in downtown Porto Alegre was once the Hotel Majestic, where I have been told the poet Mario Quintana used to reside.

Yesterday while in one of the city's gazillion malls, I happened upon a book of his poetry and thought it only appropriate that I buy a copy.

And here is a snippet (translated likely roughly, by me - feel free to offer better more nuanced translations!) of a poem titled, "Para olhar por outro ângulo" (For looking from another angle") that I thought was amusingly appropriate to all my musings about the new, sometimes different, sometimes seemingly "exotic" things I'm experiencing here in Brazil...

I'm suspicious of those tourists that consider the places they've visited to be exotic. They stay outside, seeing the picturesque in everything: the houses, the clothes, the customs, the beliefs...
And they aren't even suspicious that only exotic note in those defenseless countries is precisely themselves!
 (Desconfio desses turistas que consideram exóticos os países visitados. Ficam de fora, vendo o pitoresco em tudo: nas casa, nas roupas, nos costumes, nas crenças...
E nem desconfiam que a única nota exótica desses indefesos países são precisamente eles!)

I'll leave you with a photograph of the poet himself inside the Casa de Cultura.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

My First Churrasco

Yesterday evening V. and her husband invited me and others (including Estrela) to their lovely house for some churrasco. They live on the outskirts of town with a view of the biggest hill in the city. Due to V.'s good directions, I was successfully able to make it there on the bus.

When I arrived we sat outside on the front patio sharing chimarrão and enjoying the sunset and V.'s roses.

 
 

So, it is kind of funny, that I, a vegetarian, would first move to Texas, aka land of BBQ and cowboys, and then come to the state of Rio Grande do Sul, aka land of churrasco and vaqueros (cowboys), for a stint. It's all about meat here! Churrasco is when the meat is put on a metal stick and grilled. Yup, that's one big slab of meat.


My hosts were sensitive to my strange practices and made some accommodations for me. Yay for grilled onions (on the left)!


And of course there was lots of other delicious food to enjoy too: potato salad, tomato & onion salad, garlic bread, salad with carrots, beets & tomatoes, yummy dessert and amazingly delicious homemade wine. V.'s husband has been making wine (both white and red) for decades now and it's really good stuff.  It was a great evening with great company (luckily they ate more meat on my behalf) and delicious food.

Bus Tour No. 2

On Saturday morning, V. and I went on another tour of the city, this time of the center. (You can check out the first tour here). I made sure to liberally apply sunscreen before leaving the hostel.


I've been walking around the center of the city for a few weeks now, so luckily, I was fairly-well oriented at least some of the time. At the moment, it's a good feeling to be able think, "I kinda know where I am right now!"

Driving down beautiful avenues...this one I definitely need to recognize because it's in the area where I live.


Past a kid juggling in the street...


It turns out I'm not playing the part of the tourist well enough. I really need to look up more at all these cool buildings.

 
 

And of course, as always, past some neat street art...

 
  
  
  

Another fun tour! Thanks V.!